General and Travel Information about Tuscany

Introduction

Tuscany is one of the largest regions of Italy and has been, for centuries a favourite destination for foreign travellers. The attraction of its beauty, history, food and wine is still there to be enjoyed. Visitors will find that if they are prepared to behave as reasonable guests, Italians are the most wonderful hosts. This guide will try to tell you something about Tuscany to help you enjoy your visit.

Time

Italy is one hour ahead of Greenwich Mean Time (also known as universal time) and moves a further hour ahead on the last Sunday of March returning to normal the last Sunday of October. In effect this means that in Vancouver you should add 9 hours to what you see on your watch, in New York add 6 and in Hong Kong or Perth take away 7.

Weather

The seasons in Tuscany are quite pronounced, winter starts in mid November with cold winds and rain, as it proceeds there will normally be snow on the higher hills and temperatures going below freezing except on the coast. Nevertheless this can be one of the nicest times to visit as most of the tourist attractions are almost empty and the bright clear days are wonderful.

Spring arrives in mid March and though the days can be warm and sunny it is best to bring something warm to wear, as the evenings can still be very cool. As the days lengthen and the temperature rises, late May and June tend to be pleasantly warm.

July, August and the beginning of September can be very hot indeed (35°C / 96°F). In this period most people who can will sleep after lunch and then stay up later in the relative cool of the evening. Though air conditioning is becoming more common it is certainly not the rule in cars, hotels or restaurants. August is also the period that most Italians go on holiday making things more crowded and expensive, it is best avoided if possible.

Autumn will have some wet days but on the whole is a comfortable time with good weather going well into November. However as the year progresses it is best to have something warm with you.

Language

Some regions of Italy have dialects so different from Italian that people from other areas find them completely incomprehensible; Tuscany does not, Florence being the place of origin of the Italian language. The Tuscan accent is strong and some words do change across the region, so do not be dismayed if, having studied Italian you finds the chatter in a bar completely beyond you. When speaking to foreigners people normally speak slowly and correctly.

French was for many years the second language in Italian schools so that it is not unusual to find educated people with a good grasp of it, though the younger generation have been taught English with varying degrees of success.

Do have a go at speaking beginners Italian, no one will be offended if you get things wrong. But if you have no knowledge of the language at all, you will probably find some one to help you out. Hotels and restaurants tend to have some one who speaks some English. You will also notice quite a few signs, badly translated into English but with a bit of imagination you will understand them.

Money

Italy along with many other countries in Europe now uses the Euro, the sign for which is €. For smaller amounts it is divided into one hundred cents or "centesimi". For example, fourteen Euro and twenty-five cents is written. €14.25.

Though Italians deal a great deal in the cash needed for its large black or grey economy, credit cards such as Visa, MasterCard and American Express are widely accepted but it is always best to ask or check on the door of the establishment where you want to buy something or to eat. It is also a good idea to tell your credit card company of your travel plans before leaving home as they may be worried by large payments going out to a foreign land, thinking that your card may have been stolen or copied, then you can find yourself in an embarrassing situation when it comes to paying. It might also be worth getting a temporary raise of your limit at the same time to cover emergencies.

Traveller's checks are best changed in banks but remember that they open only on Monday to Friday 08.30 to 13.30 and 14.35 to 15.35. Often the best way to get cash is using a card in one of the banks automatic teller machines that are open 24 hours and where you can get small amounts at a time. Hotels and railway stations will also change money but give a poorer rate of exchange. You will also come across kiosks with CHANGE written above them, these are private companies and tend to give very bad rates, they are best avoided.

All over the world, places that have many visitors also attract their share of sharks, one of their tricks, in less reputable establishments is to give you change for a smaller note than you actually gave them (for instance if you give them €100 and they may give you change for €50) so try to familiarise yourself with the Euro you receive and always check the value of the note you are handing over, even saying its value as you do so. This advice is good for London, Paris or New York.

Though pickpockets are endemic in Rome, Venice and Naples, Tuscany is less bothered by them and violent crime is rare. Never the less it is best not to carry large amounts of cash around and take a photocopy of your passport and drivers licence in case one or other gets lost.

Electricity

Electrical power is supplied at AC 230 volts and 60 Hertz - you can find converters for most plugs at airports and electrical supply shops but be careful because though they may allow you to plug in your appliance they do not normally alter the voltage so that hair dryers or travelling irons, from the USA for instance, can burn out or even catch fire if not wired for 230 volts.

Safety and Health

Tuscany is a very safe place to visit though some might find the driving of its inhabitants a little scary at first. Walking at night in the town or the countryside is considered to be free of risk but some roads on the outskirts of, or between cities, are the equivalent of the red light district, so best avoided.

Water in towns is supposed to be all right to drink but it is best not to trust the plumbing and stick to the bottled variety. Some hotels have a purifying system but don't assume so. If you decide to drink only bottled water remember that ice is made with tap water.

The Italian emergency health care in Tuscany at least, is relatively efficient. Citizens of whatever country are entitled to it following an accident. Casualty rooms are present at most hospitals and usually mercifully uncrowded. EU citizens should bring their E 111 forms with them to entitle them to care and for any non-emergency help.

For minor ailments the local Farmacia or Pharmacy will have well qualified staff who can help to diagnose and prescribe for you. However, it is best to bring a good supply of any medicines that you habitually use as there is no guarantee that they will be found here. Insect repellent and sun cream are necessary and easily available.

History

The evidence of the past is ever present in Tuscany so that a little understanding of its history can greatly help one to enjoy it today. This is an attempt to put the 2,500 years from the Etruscans to the renaissance into very few words so please forgive any omissions or errors.

The Etruscans ruled over the centre of the Italian peninsular from around 500 BC until the last century BC and gave their name to Tuscany. At times their rule extended from what is now Naples to above the present Bologna. Little is known of their origin and their language is still largely undeciphered Their customs and art differed from those of their neighbours and were particularly rich. The Ancient Greeks were horrified to find that women were not only allowed to sit and eat with men but also to discuss philosophy and art.

Most of what is known of them comes from their elaborate tombs that yielded beautiful pottery, jewellery and burial urns. These can be seen at Chiusi, Tarquinia and Cortona amongst other places. Unfortunately the Etruscans backed the wrong side in one of the power struggles of Rome, the growing power from the south and were almost exterminated by the victor Sulla. It was not until his death and the arrival of Cicero that they were allowed to live in peace and were slowly absorbed by the Roman Empire.

Etruria, as the land of the Etruscans was now called, became the seventh region of Italy to the Romans who colonised, taking over the ruins of older settlements and building on top of them. Some of the ancient walls of towns and buildings still show the Etruscan stone below the ones placed in Roman times and finally the medieval and renaissance ones on top. The Romans also built Pisa as a port and Julius Caesar founded Florence at the best fording place of the Arno.

Around 500 AD the empire fell to Goths, Byzantines and Lombards so most of the cities of Tuscany were taken over and looted. Slowly the invaders left or settled, converting to Christianity.

By 1000 the Italian peninsular was caught up in a power struggle between the Pope and the Emperor of the Holy Roman Empire (which was neither) and the Tuscan cities themselves split between Guelf who supported the pope and Ghibeline who supported the Emperor, also it was being carved up between the major European powers such as Spain and France.

In the midst of this, many of the towns and cities in Tuscany achieved de facto independence building defensive walls around themselves and experimenting with various sorts of self-government from the almost democratic to the outright dictatorial. One of the most important towns was Florence, which by 1500 was dominating or invading its neighbours due to its enormous wealth born of banking, papal politics and wool, the heavy industry of the middle ages. Soon almost all of Tuscany fell under the power of Florence, and Florence, once ruled by a council was now ruled by the Medici, a family of merchants turned bankers then politicians.

Under their stewardship Florence, rich and at peace became a meeting place for those who had brains and those who had power, for those who were the greatest artists of their time and those who could afford their work and most of all a clearing house for ideas both new and rediscovered from Roman and Greek antiquity, hence the name Renaissance or Rebirth, out of which came not just the revolutionary architecture and art that we can still see today but also many of the ideas that have shaped the western world.

Food, Wine and Eating out

Italian cuisine has been exported to the corners of the world so most people are somewhat familiar with it, yet each region has its own peculiarities and specialities. Tuscan food is for the most part simple and based on what is locally and seasonably available.

An Italian menu is divided into four parts, first is the appetiser called the antipasti. These are small dishes of things like assorted cured meats or little rounds of bread with various sauces on them called crostinni. The next part, the Primi Piatti deals with the pasta selection and will also include thick soups containing beans, barley or toasted bread and rice dishes. The next is the Secondi, the various meat or fish dishes, a subsection of this is the contorni which lists the various salads and vegetables than can be served as a side dish. The fourth and final part is for Dolci, that is sweets or deserts but may also contain a cheese selection.

Anyone who goes for the full four courses twice a day will certainly end up doubting the health giving qualities of a Mediterranean diet. Most people will leave out one or two courses most of the time but do tell the waiter what order you want things to come in and who is eating what, otherwise half of your party could be left watching as the other half eat the appetiser who will in turn watch while the pasta course is eaten, when it finally arrives. Pizzas are normally served only in the evenings.

Choosing a place to eat is not too difficult, as it is still quite hard to get a bad meal anywhere but here are some tips:

• Any menu with an enormous selection is unlikely to be able to have everything fresh.
• Keep to the back streets and away from the main squares in places like Siena or Florence as there the price to quality ratio tends to be poor.
• If the menu posted at the door is not translated it is a good sign, translated into English as well, it could still be all right but if it is translated into more languages then it is probably best avoided.
• Guidebooks can be of help but are often out dated and tend to encourage the presence of lots of tourists and less locals, that can influence the quality.

Tipping is not normally expected in family run establishments, although of course gratefully accepted when proffered. Some menus will show that a service charge will be added to the bill and others might say service not included, but even in this case you should only tip if you feel very happy with the service. Italian waiters are paid a reasonable wage and do not have to rely on gratuities.

Pets and Children

Pets are not allowed in restaurants, although if you are eating outside no one will mind. Children on the other hand are welcome just about everywhere, in all but the snootiest places they are allowed to get up, run around, laugh and play. Children in Italy are treated like little gods, dressed in the best clothes, spoilt rotten by their grandparents and remarkably well behaved.

Wine

Tuscany is home to some of the best wines in Italy and the world, its top ranks include Brunello di Motalcino, Vino Nobile DI Montepulciano and Chianti. Recently some of the better wineries have been making Super Tuscans, often aged in French oak barrels which are smaller than those traditionally used. While it is great fun to taste these high end wines it is usually possible to get a good quality house wine which will not be to heavy on the pocket and will allow a certain amount of afternoon activity.

Other places to eat

Lunch or dinner in a restaurant is a time consuming if pleasant experience so don't go into one if you are in a hurry. Bars tend to stock selections of sandwiches that can be eaten on the spot or taken away, the nearest thing to fast food that Tuscany has. Remember that in a bar you will be charged extra to eat or drink, sitting at a table rather than standing at the bar. In the town squares the difference can be quite a lot. In small family run bars you normally pay after you have eaten or drunk something, in the larger ones, in railway stations or on the autostrada you pay the cashier and then go to the bartender for your snack. Also most delicatessens, Alimentari, will make you up sandwiches from a bewildering selection of cheeses and cold cuts.

Travel

Trains are quite cheep and reliable when not on strike, however most Tuscan towns are on hill tops and the trains don't pass close to the centre. An exception is Florence which is best visited by train as it can be hard to park. If you do go by train remember to stamp your ticket before getting on. You do this by sliding it into one of the small yellow boxes you will see around the station, if it is a return you will need to stamp it again before coming back. If you don't do this your ticket is technically invalid, though foreigners are rarely fined.

Buses like trains are cheap though it does take a while to get used to the timetables. You buy your ticket first in a bar, newspaper stand or shop, anywhere that displays the logo of the bus company. Again you must stamp it as soon as you get on. The bus staff do impose fines on anyone not doing so.

A car is probably the best way to see Tuscany. They can be rented at around €40 to €60 a day. It is probably a good idea to book before arrival and shop around for price. Avis at Chiusi station costs less than Avis at Rome airport for instance. Air conditioning is recommended from May to September. Many, especially large cars run on diesel.

When planning your journey give yourself plenty of time, distances may be short but the windy country roads mean that travelling times are long. Don't worry if you are stopped at a police roadblock, it doesn't mean that you have done anything wrong, probably just a routine check. By law you must carry your licence when driving plus your passport if the licence does not include a photo. Don't forget this as it can get you into big trouble if you do. Seat belts must be worn and talking on a mobile phone when driving is against the law, even though most Italians appear to do it.

Most towns have ZTL (limited traffic zone) in which non-residents are forbidden to drive, it is marked by a red circle with white inside, it may have a time limit allowing morning access. Parking spaces surrounded by blue paint mean you have to pay and display a ticket in that area, white lines mean that parking is free (except in Florence) though there might be a time limit requiring you to state when you arrived on a disc, you will find one in hire cars, if you don't have one you can always write the time on a piece of paper and leave it on the dash board. The law now states that dipped headlights must be on at all times when not in a built up area.

If you do hire a car be sure to take photos of all for sides when you get it, and then when you give it back. This is especially important when dropping a vehicle at the airport and taking the keys to the desk inside. When you are back home and the credit card deductions arrive it is too late to argue!

Taxis do not cruise around looking for custom but wait at Taxi ranks in town squares or railway stations, you will also find their telephone numbers in bars. Do not be tempted by people standing outside airports or rail stations asking if you want a taxi as they are undoubtedly unlicensed and are likely to give you a very bad deal.

Shopping

Shops that lie away from tourist areas generally open Monday to Saturday from around 9.00 till 13.00 and 16.00 until 20.00. Food shops are closed on Wednesday afternoon and most other ones on Monday morning. Open-air markets provide a great spectacle and are also good places to shop, each town has one once a week, in the morning, though the days differ from town to town. They don't have much romance about them but the Co-op supermarkets probably give the best value for money with regard to food and are places to find inexpensive gifts to take home, especially in the cooking utensil area. All shops and market stalls should give you a receipt for your purchase, make sure you are given one, you are required by law to keep it until leaving the area of the shop or stall otherwise you could be fined by the "Guardia DI Finanza" or Tax Police.

Conversion chart - sizes

		Women's sizes
		Dresses						Sweaters					Shoes
UK		10	12	14	16	18		10	12	14	16		03	04	05	06	07	08
USA		08	10	12	14	16		08	10	12	14		04	05	06	07	08	09
Italy		40	42	44	46	48		46	48	50	52		36	37	38	39	40	41

	Men's sizes
	Shirts					Suits							Shoes
UK	14	15	16	17		36	38	40	42	44	46		05	06	07	08	09	10	11	12
USA	14	15	16	17		36	38	40	42	44	46		7.5	08	09	10	10.5	11	12	13
Italy	36	38	40	42		46	48	50	52	54	56		38	39	40	41	42	43	44	45

Dress Code

It is almost impossible for foreigners to dress with the same flair that the Italians have, that does not mean that we cannot try. It is best to bring along some smart but casual clothes just in case you get invited to a feast or function of some kind. It can be embarrassing to find yourself in a tee shirt and trainers when everyone else is in Gucci and Valentino. That does not mean men should wear a formal dark suit, as they would probably be mistaken for waiters.

Many churches will not allow people to enter in shorts or sleeveless shirts.

Telephones

Since most Italians above the age of five have a mobile phone, public ones are in short supply, however many bars have one. The international code for Italy is 39 and to dial abroad you must dial 00 before the code of the country you wish to phone.

Toilets

The Ancient Romans were famous for their control and use of water from aqueducts to hydraulics; some say though, that things haven't improved much since then. Signori means for men Signore for women. You will sometimes find a lady just outside a WC with a little plate with change in it, you are expected to leave a small tip for her to clean the place. If you try some of the public toilets without this arrangement you will appreciate that it is a small price to pay.

Accommodation

Hotels are categorised on a one to five star system depending on their amenities, with most being three or four star, there are many on line booking agencies and many towns and provinces have their own links to local establishments. However these are often outdated and the websites often reflect more the ability of the web master than the quality of the place they are selling. If you are staying for a few days or weeks, self-catering apartments and villas are available at quite reasonable prices especially if the cost is divided over a group. Often these properties must be rented from Saturday to Saturday.

Places to go, thing to see

The various printed guides give a complete overview of the various land marks and their historical contexts however there are many town and village fairs and festivals happening throughout the year that can be great fun to take part in. There are four main forms.

The Sagra is based around a certain type of food, anything from Steaks to Snails. It consists of large numbers of people, at long tables, eating the food to be celebrated with the proceeds normally going to a local sports club.

The town competition, this takes place between various areas or Contrade of the town and can be, for instance, a race - Palio, joust - Giostra or archery contest - Archidado which are accompanied by a great deal of pageantry and show, but remember they can be very crowded and try to be on your best behaviour, as the locals treat it all very seriously.

Religious festivals usually pay tribute to the town's patron saint with a procession and fair, you might as well take part, as all the shops will be closed.

La Festa dell' Unita is supposedly in support of the newspaper of the post-communist PDS political party. In reality it has very little to do with politics and is just an occasion for everyone to meet, eat and dance to traditional music. There are often lucky dip stands or games of skill for small prizes. It is as good a way as any to see the local populace at play.

To find out about these and other things such as Music Festivals or Exhibitions you should look at the posters stuck up around the town walls or ask some one at your hotel or villa to look in the local section of La Nazione, Tuscany's newspaper where these things are listed.

Printed Guides

There are of course printed guides to almost every aspect of Italian life and history but to take on holiday Cadogan provides a very British, thorough guide in friendly style, Rough Guides is from a more international perspective and is slightly lighter to carry and to read.

This Guide is designed for anyone new to Tuscany. It was written by Jonathan Arthur, a British freelance guide, who has lived in Tuscany for most of his adult life. He currently has a house with his wife and 18 year old daughter in a small hamlet near Cortona. If you wish to bring any links or information to his attention, he can be contacted at info@italywithrelish.it